Day 2: Puesto Serón to Refugio Lago Dickson (18.5 km)
Day 2 map: Puesto Serón to Lago Dickson
We awoke on day 2 of our Torres del Paine “O” trek to blue skies punctuated by fluffy white clouds. After packing up and eating some oatmeal surprise (surprise: coconut flakes, raisins and cinnamon) we started the 18.5 km trek to Refugio Lago Dickson. The trail started innocently enough along the river.
Lovely start to the day along the winding trail.
Eventually we hit Laguna Alejandra and our first real climb of the trip. Though rather pathetic in retrospect, this short series of switchbacks was the first time I’d have to do any significant uphill with my pack. I took a lot of “photo breaks” (aka take a photo to pretend I’m not just incapable of moving another step without a short rest) and was happy to take in the scenery.
I’m taking a photo break…
Eventually you come over a ridge and are hit with a beautiful view of Lago Paine, with a bunch of picturesque mountains behind. During this section I caught up with John and Gabe and we walked together for awhile while taking about our past lives. John had a pretty great series of adventures under his belt and it was fun to hear about working everywhere from Northwestern University to a printing studio in Paris.
Lago Paine was the backdrop as I talked to John and Gabe.
We hiked on, descending to a nice pile of building materials (they were constructing a new bathroom near the ranger station) that was a perfect seating area to grab lunch (and gaze at birds and waterfalls nearby). There we regrouped then set off for a final push to Lago Dickson. We crossed open grasslands and hopped a few streams before slowly climbing a moraine ridge. At the top of this ridge Lago Dickson finally appeared below, with beautiful mountains and glaciers towering above. In an open meadow beside the lake we could see our destination for the night: the refugio and campground.
Lago Dickson appears! The campground and refugio are on that open space in the middle of the lake.
We made quick work along the ridge then down a steep set of switchbacks to reach the meadow. Unlike Puesto Serón, Dickson featured a lot more open space to put tents, which despite a large number of campers, felt fairly private.
Steph and Julie come into camp.
We set up on our own little patch of grass and relaxed for the afternoon (we even saw a group of Chilean cowboys wrangling horses). John and I did a little birding and explored the shore of the lake, but crazy winds made for less than stellar birding conditions.
Exploring Lago Dickson with John. Not many birds, but beautiful views.
The winds also complicated our dinner preparations later. We decided to create a human windwall so we could make a second batch of lentil surprise (we improved on this system with a sleeping pad windwall in the morning – less manpower needed!).
Windwall 2.0 (breakfast addition)
Unfortunately, during dinner preparations it started raining pretty hard, which meant an early retreat to the tents to escape the weather. I passed out pretty early, waking to a beautiful rainbow over camp the next morning.
Lago Dickson rainbow send off.
Day 3: Refugio Lago Dickson to Campamento Los Perros (9 km)
Day 3 map: Dickson to Perros
After cooking up breakfast while gazing at a rainbow, and messing around with Steph’s pack, we set out on day 3 to Campamento Los Perros, 9 km away. This day’s short mileage was going to provide us with a nice break before the big day, Day 4, the pass. I’d been dreading/focusing on day 4 in my brain for so long that I didn’t really do a lot of research on what was waiting for me on day 3. Turns out, it was probably my favorite day of the trip. Day 3was almost entirely a walk in the woods. I walked mostly solo this day and my soul felt at home the second my foot hit the wooded dirt path. Surrounded by the sounds of the forest and the overpowering green-ness, I couldn’t get the smile off my face.
A walk in the woods needs some bridges…
and some stairs.
Some lovely openings in the canopy with pretty views couldn’t hurt either.
Throw in a rushing stream…oh screw it, you had me at hello.
I passed a pretty waterfall, Salto Los Perros midway through the hike. From there we continued in woods until we neared Laguna de los Perros. At that point the winds got pretty crazy (so crazy I didn’t want to take my camera out to take a photo of this little glacial lake and its feeder glacier). The last 15 or so minutes of the day involved walking on rocks up towards the laguna and then along the river flats.
Waterfall mid-hike!
This glacier is visible on your final rocky push into camp.
Just when I thought I didn’t want to take another rocky step, I came upon another patch of woods, which happened to be our destination: Campamento Los Perros. JT found us some nice places to set up camp and then we took advantage of our first cooking shelter on the trail (Serón and Dickson didn’t have these). The shelter was a great place to escape the wind to cook, warm up and talk.
Dinner is served in the cooking shelter: couscous with Parmesan cheese.
After we cooked up dinner, a Chilean employee set up a slackline in camp, and Chris (can I just call him Mr. Incredible?) made the thing look like child’s play.
Chris: as if I’m not awesome enough, I will slackline for beer, then drink that beer while balancing effortlessly.
While watching Chris own the place, a fox meandered into camp looking for food. I followed him around for a bit to get some photos and just take in his beauty. Then I made sure my food was secure before calling it a night (as much as I enjoyed the fox, I didn’t want a middle-of-the-night visit from him).
Foxy visitor.
Day 4: Campamento Los Perros to Campamento Paso (12 km, 680m ascent, 800m descent)
Day 4: Perros to Paso
Day 4, the stuff of legend, finally arrived. I told Stephanie, our first time backpacker, and myself (not in the best shape of my life), that if we could make it through day 4, we were golden. Thankfully the weather chose to grant us great conditions for ascending John Gardner pass, the day’s challenge.
The trail started out with some difficult to navigate mud pits and climbed near continuously all morning. From mud, we transitioned to rocks (not sure which I hate more) and wind, but the views all day were lovely and the trail easy to follow.
We had perfect weather for the pass, which meant great views all day.
Steph on the rocky trail, still in possession of soon-to-be-missing striped hat.
As we climbed toward the pass a small glacier was visible to our right on Cerro Amistad.
Julie checking out the glacier on Cerro Amistad.
Our “look tough” photo in front of Friendship Mountain. I have no explanation for why we are doing this…
Julie and I crested the 1241 meter pass together, fighting a biting wind. On the other side was the impressive sight of Glacier Grey, a sheet of ice enveloping the whole valley below. We gaped at the massiveness and beauty of it all.
Me at the top of the pass! That mass of white behind me is Glacier Grey.
Then we layered up and waited it out up top to cheer Stephanie’s first pass summit! She was less than thrilled about the rocky trail (“F— rocks”) and her upset stomach, but I think she’s currently happy we forced her to take a group picture up top.
The girls on top of John Gardner Pass, Steph’s first (of many?).
From the pass we had a long and steep descent into camp, at first rocky, then featuring lots of loose earth. The whole way down I was thinking I was extremely happy we chose to hike counterclockwise – better views and less intense ascent.
Taking in the views on the way down to Campamento Paso.
I enjoyed the second part of the descent, again in woodlands similar to the ones I loved the day before.
Taking a break in the woods!
Bridge crossing near Campamento Paso.
Eventually the woods opened up to a big rocky stream crossing. There I caught up with Ian, JT and Chris who were talking and enjoying the impressive view of the glacier.
The guys taking a break with an impressive backdrop.
Me chilling out in front of Glacier Grey (just outside Campamento Paso).
We chilled there for a bit before walking a short distance to Campamento Paso, a cool free campground in the middle of the forest. The weather was nice enough to let us get our tents up before it started raining. After some great food (ravioli reward for crossing the pass) and good conversation in the cooking shelter, it was another early night.
Campamento Paso filled up as the evening went on. Check out the impressive drainage system our neighbors built around their tent (which had a space thanks to an OCD clearing project taken on by Erin earlier in the evening).
If you go:
Tips: Be prepared for wind to affect your cooking at Puesto Serón and Lago Dickson, as both do not have cooking shelters. Also of note, at least during high season the staff at Serón and Dickson were rather haphazard at collecting camping fees (they supposedly come around to your tent at a certain point). You may find yourself making it out the next day without paying.
I highly recommend hiking counterclockwise for a number of reasons, but the fact that you have an easier pass ascent is number 1! Less elevation gain and a much more gradual ascent. Also if you have trekking poles I would highly recommend bringing them on this trek. I shared a rented set (one each) with Julie, and they were great to have during windy periods (frequent) and descents (also frequent).
Campamento Paso is one of the few free sites left at Torres del Paine, and I rather liked it. It features a number of dirt spots in the middle of the forest. They are of varying quality levels. To get the best choice (aka more level/less roots) try to set out early from Perros and make good time on the pass.